The Path Less Taken

by Tom Hewitt

Secondary pathways ignore the rules.

I’ve always had a fond affection for garden pathways.  There is something about their beauty and intrigue I just can’t resist.  They take us on journeys to the far reaches of our gardens, offering countless delights along the way.

 Main walkways, such as those leading to the front door, should be at least four feet wide to accommodate two people walking side by side.  But secondary pathways are different, and need only be from one and a half to two feet wide.  They’re inherently more intimate, so normal rules just don’t apply.

 I like pathways with plenty of curves.  But not too many.  Curves should always have a purpose, and too many can make a pathway appear indecisive and confusing.  The most natural-looking pathways follow a natural line of travel.  But even then it helps to unroll the garden hose and keep tweaking the lines until you get it right.

My favorite garden pathways are the simplest ones. At a residence I care for, I made a simple raked path meandering through shrubs in back of the pool area. All I do is drag my rake along it once or twice a week, allowing leaves to accumulate on either side. It simulates the look of a woodland path, even though it's only steps away from the pool area, separated by a mixed shrub border.

I did a similar thing at my house many years ago.  Under the shade of a large Shumard oak (Quercus shumardii) I made a path through Boston fern, leading to an arbor that helps hide my potting area.   The leaves from the oak were the only mulch I needed.  Later on I removed the fern, and used creeping sage (Salvia misella) in its place.   One gardener I know uses a three-foot swath of grass as a pathway, with mulched areas on either side.

Anything can be used for mulching woodland paths, from pine straw, to leaves, to grass clippings.  But if you want a uniform appearance, eucalyptus mulch is my favorite.  It keeps its color and lasts a long time.  I don’t put it down thickly, however.  Just enough to keep it looking uniform and suppress weeds. 

Fine pine bark also works well.  I don’t use pine nuggets because they get kicked around easily and float when it rains.  But I find pine bark packs nicely and keeps its color.  I just replenish it with a bag or two each year.

I don’t bother with weedblock on mulched pathways, since it only gives me grief in the long run.  But it is probably a good idea for paths made of pebbles or gravel.  Remember to have at least a 2-inch thickness (3 inches is better) of whatever medium you choose to use.

Stepping-stone paths are also quite lovely. Whether you put them in grass or surround them with groundcover, they help pull the eye forward. Consider planting dwarf mondo grass (Ophiopogon japonicus) between pavers. Placing stones further apart in front and closer in back can help exaggerate the distance of a path, making it appear longer than it is. Stepping stones should not be placed too far apart. Remember to leave no more than six inches between them to afford a comfortable stride.

It can be difficult to edge pavers set into a St. Augustine lawn.  I find it better to remove the grass and surround pavers with mulch.  If stepping stones are less than 2” in depth, I just lie them on top of mulch or stones.  Otherwise you’re constantly sweeping them after downpours.

Stepping stones set in crushed stone or gravel also work well.  But remember, rolling a wheelbarrow on a gravel pathway can be cumbersome.  Brick is nice for secondary pathways, but requires much more work to install.  Those placed in a running bond pattern involve less cutting, and make a path appear longer.  Make sure you provide a good base to keep bricks level. 

 I’ve seen lovely garden paths made with wood rounds, though they usually rot away fairly quickly.  They do last longer embedded in gravel, however. Nowadays they make wood rounds out of artificial materials that closely resemble the real thing.

 I personally don’t like edging material for mulched pathways.  I think it detracts from their natural look.  But edging is really a must for those made of crushed stone or gravel.  Even then I prefer metal edging, since it tends to go unnoticed.    

Tom Hewitt is a freelance writer and gardening consultant from West Palm Beach.

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